Part 1:
Pattern cutting

This series of articles begins by explaining how the individual parts of a shoe upper are designed.

Part 2:
Pattern grading

The principles behind pattern grading.

Part 3:
Last grading

Knowledge of the principles behind last grading should help everyone in the shoe production chain.

Part 4:
Cutting upper materials

Compared with other costs involved in shoemaking, the cost of upper materials is high.

Part 5:
ID marking

It is recommended that all cut sections of uppers and finished uppers are clearly marked.

Part 6:
Stitchmarking

Why stitchmarking is required in the shoemaking process and how it is carried out.

Part 7:
Skiving

Skiving reduces the substance (thickness) of the cut edge of an upper or lining material.

Part 8:
Linings and interlinings

Describing the process used to back an upper with a lining or interlining.

Part 9:
Upper pre-forming

Some uppers will require a preliminary shaping operation before the main forming process of lasting.

Part 10:
Edge treatments

The topline (top edge of the upper) can be a very vulnerable area of the shoe.

Part 11:
Stitching machines

Upper stitching is one of the more skilled operations within the shoe manufacturing process.

Part 12:
Stitching control

Investigating the ways stitching machines can be driven and the different types of motor available.

Part 13:
Threads and needles

Choosing the right thread and needle is key to achieving the required results.

Part 14:
Stitches and seams

Examining the variety of stitches and seams used in footwear production.

Part 15:
Reinforcement

Correct reinforcement in footwear is essential to avoid material failure during manufacture or wear.

Part 16:
Straps

There are several methods used in footwear manufacture to ensure that the shoe is held securely on the foot.

Part 17:
Buckles

Putting buckles and touch-and-close fasteners under the spotlight.

Part 18:
Laces

The use of laces, slide fasteners, side release clasps, press studs and elastic.

Part 19:
Attaching trims

Trims must be adequately affixed to footwear, each material having its own specific method of attachment.

Part 20:
Box toeing

Describing the various types of box toes used in footwear manufacture and how they are applied.

Part 21:
Preparation for lasting

Completed uppers are sent to the ‘assembly line’, where the component parts are brought together.

Part 22:
Backpart moulding

The importance of backpart moulding and the different methods which are available.

Part 23:
Upper conditioning

All upper materials need correct storage prior to use and many also require suitable conditioning.

Part 24:
Flat lasting

Reviewing the most widely used of all modern lasting systems – flat lasting.

Part 25:
Force/slip lasting

Continuing our series on modern lasting systems, we now turn our attention to force/slip lasting.

Part 26:
String lasting

Investigating the most common techniques used in producing string lasted shoes.

Part 27:
Goodyear welted

A consideration of the various skills involved in this long-established process.

Part 28:
Heat setting

Heat setting is a very important operation which can significantly add to a shoe's appearance and value.

Part 29:
Preparing soles

Correct preparation of footwear components is essential to produce good sole bonding during construction.

Part 30:
Sole cementing and bonding

A wide variety of sole cementing procedures are available.

Part 31:
Goodyear welted sole attachment

A process which requires a particular method of construction.

Part 32:
Machine sewn soles

The stitching of soles onto uppers is one of the oldest ways of attaching outsoles.

Part 33:
Direct moulded soles

After adhesion and stitching, a third possible mechanism exists to attach soles to uppers – direct moulding.

Part 34:
Attaching heels

A consideration of effective methods used to attach heels.

Part 35:
Finishing and shoe rooming

The various operations carried out in the finishing room.

Part 36:
Computers in footwear production

Investigating the use of automation and computerisation.

Part 37:
All-moulded footwear

The manufacture of PVC and PU wellington boots, slush moulded footwear, ‘jellies’ and EVA footwear.

Part 38:
Process monitoring and control

Identifying key elements of an in-factory process measurement system.